Noha

Noha welcomed me into her home. She offered me tea, food, gave me a place to rest, a cushion to sleep on. She took me to the market to choose the fish for the midday meal, and a few vegetables too. We shared the meal, she and I, the men to one side. We spoke little, because of the language... we looked at each other, smiled, made little gestures to try to express ourselves... we even exchanged phone numbers! In the bedroom she went to fetch her photo album; she introduced me to her family, her life, her story... Beside us, her little girl was playing...

I wanted to thank her, to leave her a keepsake, a small present. I had few things with me, too concerned — what a mistake — with travelling "light". I gave her a few make-up pencils: kohl pencils for the eyes, red pencils for the lips. So little, compared with what she had offered me... But her pleasure was real, her joy unfeigned, and her eyes sparkled as she tried the pencils one by one on her hand... like all the women of the world... an unforgettable moment of complicity... And then very quickly she got up, signalled "don't move, I'll be back", and went off to the bedroom. And then she laid on my lap the presents she wanted to give me in return. From among her own things, she had chosen for me two small terry towels and a pretty pink T-shirt with a velvet trim — perhaps her prettiest T-shirt...

Once again that feeling — familiar now, yet always so troubling — of embarrassment, pride and joy mingled before such simple generosity, misted my soul and engraved in my memory eternal images of gentleness and respect.

I suggested taking photos and Noha accepted with enthusiasm. Of course, she first did her make-up with care, like all the women of the world... an unforgettable moment of complicity... And then I "snapped away" with the joy of her trust given. I will bring her these photos on my next journey.

The hour of departure came... goodbye Noha... thank you, thank you infinitely... if I had a sister in Nouadhibou, I would want her to be you... I will come back to you insh'allah...